One fat sheep and lots of mud

---I woke up this morning to the distinctive sound of "baa, baaa, baaaaaa" and thought that I was in the middle of a pasture somewhere in New Zealand. With bleary eyes (hey, it was 5:30 am)I opened the window above my bed and looked outside only to go eyeball-to-eyeball with one big FAT white sheep. If he had been any closer I would have had a wool blanket to sleep with last night (which I needed since it's cold here at night in the mountains). After a quick cup of bracing rooibus tea I was off to face the rest of Lesotho. Well, unfortunately 99% of Lesotho today was mud-central since it rained last night. Try combining muddy steets, the occasional roaming cow, goat, or sheep and millions of taxis and mini bus taxis roaming around at Mach 2 beeping their horns during the early morning rush hour and you will not need coffee to wake you up. By the time I hit the UNAIDS office I could have qualified for the olympic long jump over muddy potholes/kid goat competition. Maseru is an interesting small city. Compared to Lagos, Accra, Abidjan, or Johannesburg Maseru is definetly small cheese. There is one main road (Kingsway) and this road lead you to the Maseru bridge and the border crossing with South Africa, and the road to Bloemfontein (the next largest city in South Africa). The road from 7-9 am is basically a one-way road to the border with everyone and his mother (and his mother's chicken) trying to break for South Africa. I get the impression that this is what the last boat out to [insert preferred destination of choice] must feel like. Even the animals seem to have a "South Africa or bust!" sticker on them in the morning!