Bob land

This country remains an intriguing and disturbing enigma to me. Today I was stopped at a security checkpoint, earlier this morning some of my colleagues and me laughed (uneasily) at the deteriorating security situation, and right now I sit across from a big man in the governing party who is having champagne on ice with his sweetie. I sit here and laugh bitterly.

One story, which perhaps illustrates the daily struggles most people face in Zimbabwe, took place with the bartender at this hotel. The man is in his fifties and broke his glasses while I was here a couple of months ago. I offered to buy him new glasses, as he was struggling to see and do his job, if he brought me an estimate from the local optometrist. After I got the estimate, I gave him the cash and told him I would see him in February with his new glasses. Well I just saw him, and to my disappointment, but not surprise, he did not buy the glasses. His son took sick that weekend (at least that is the story he is giving me) and he had to pay cash for services (a reality in Zimbabwe). He told me that he felt “shy” approaching me without the glasses but if I have learned anything, particularly after the debacle with my research assistant in Lesotho, about relationships and obligations on this continent is that you need to have a big, understanding heart combined with a little bit of a skeptical Philly-style mentality. Human relationships are a messy and wonderful thing, especially when operating in crazy, alternative universes like Bob land.